Within the span of 3 short hours, we've gone from the nicest hotel to the WORST, Hotel Dikran. We're now in Los Angeles because it is the only town to stay in if you want to see the volcano tomorrow. After what seemed like endless driving and terrible radio, we arrived to what we assumed was the set of Thriller. What we initially thought was fog turned out to be smoke that currently blankets the whole city. We're not sure where the smoke comes from, but it's horrendous and no one else seems to notice it. The city is so small that Lonely Planet didn't bother including a map, which made our hotel that much more difficult to find in the dark. It was only by the sheer grace of God that we stumbled upon it.
We were frightened to get out of our car, but the guy at the front desk secured our car in their parking garage. Their parking garage is an unfinished construction site guarded by a suspect chain length fence. We're praying that the car is there in the morning. The staff however is quite friendly, though the men standing across the street looked quite "rape-y" as I think Thomasin put it.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
One more for the road
Included in your stay at Casa Silva is a tour of the winery. It was beautiful but the info was the same. There's not that many ways to make wine really.
However, I cannot recommend this hotel enough. Our guide was supremely friendly and knowledgeably despite the fact that we may have asked too many questions (most of which weren't related to the winery, or wine in general). As you can see, Thomasin was smelling the wine real hard.
Hung like a horse
And the winner is
We decided that last night in Santa Cruz was the best meal we've had since being in Chile. It was also one of the cheapest. It was a simple seafood restaurant recommended by the hotel staff and it was incredible. Ceviche, octopus, Albacore, and whatever it was that Thomasin ate. All washed down with Chilean wine.
The Viu from the top
We went to Viu Manent Winery shortly after arriving in Santa Cruz for our first wine tour, but mostly to get so drunk. Santa Cruz is absolutely stunning with continual views of the Andes. As you learned from my travels in Australia, I don't like people, so it was great that we were the only ones on our tour. We just drove up with no reservation and politely asked for a tour. Our guide took us around the plantation, er, winery in a horse drawn carriage and then it was off to the tasting. We came, we drank, I bought wine. what more can I say?.....well I can say that I will stop wearing that white cap because I look like I'm a cancer patient.
Casa Silva you are so sexy
Despite misleading and poorly placed signage, we arrived at Casa de Silva, the nicest place we've been so far. It's the family's old estate that they turned into a hotel/winery. It looks like a stable and the rooms were incredible along with the food and service. And that's Thomasin standing in our bathroom. it has mutha f-in windows. Our extra toilet paper even had handmade quilted holders. I didn't even know that was a possibility. The best part, they had Direct TV.
I'm pretty sure we were the only ones there besides our drunk Norwegian friend who we met in the living room after he finished his 2nd bottle of Champagne. Did I mention he was by himself and drank 2 bottles of Champagne. by himself?!?!
The hardest part is the tip
So yesterday we made our way to the Santiago airport to acquire our rental car and make our way 1.5 hours south of the city to Santa Cruz (better known as wine country). Driving in Chile is more or less like a video game from the 80's with obstacle courses at every turn to thwart you from getting to your final destination. It's like Super Mario Brother's except there are no dragons throwing fireballs at you, and when you eat mushrooms you don't get special powers. Our rental car is the cheapest one they had meaning that we have the most basic accoutrements, just barely. Luckily there was a radio with a amazing music and a disproportionate amount of Reggaeton.
Our obstacles (read: enemies) included the following:
1. A man on a bicycle in the middle of the highway
2. Chilean men running back and forth across the highway
3. large trucks with either fruit or papers falling off the back
4. at least 20 toll booths (we've spent at least $50 in tolls so far)
5. Chileans (lots of them) selling peanuts and whatnot at the toll booths (we would have none of that)
6. poor directions provided by google map (they are the worst), and
7. incoherent roads signs
But finally we arrived at our hotel Casa de Silva which is like heaven on earth. More on that soon.....
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